Sunday, July 1, 2007

Judgment of Paris by George M. Taber

I will admit that I have a bias towards wine from California, Oregon, and other U.S. states. Perhaps its out of my sense of patriotism towards things Made in U.S.A.. Or maybe because I learned to enjoy wine with California wine. My first wine experience was with a bottle of Chardonnay from Sonoma. I recall visiting Robert Mondavi winery to learn how wine is made. And it helps that its easier to understand California wine and that California produces some of the best wine in the world.

California wine has long history, long as the history of California. However, it was not always considered top-class as it is now. As I was learning about California wine, I had heard vaguely about a “competition” in Paris in the 1970’s where a bottle of California wine received the top prize. “Judgment of Paris” covers the event itself, the stories behind the tasting, and how the tasting perhaps changed the world of wine. The book was written by George Taber, the only person from the media that covered the tasting.

The tasting took place on May 24, 1976 in Paris. It was not highly publicized leading up to the tasting. It was organized by a wine shop in Paris to show case some of the up and coming California wine. But the panel of judges was prominent figures in the wine industry in France. The result was surprising – where California wine took first place in both Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon categories.

The book was written objectively. The author did not take any sides, but rather “reporting” the events leading up to the tasting, how the tasting was conducted, and how it was felt in the wine world. The first half of the book brought to life the stories behind the wine that took first place. These were the stories of winemakers, producers, winery owners that helped make the winning wine at the tasting. The book also covered how New World wine began to be competitive with wine from France and other Old World wine producing countries; perhaps thanks in part due to the tasting. I enjoyed reading the book and learned to appreciate California wine more.

Chardonnay
Chateau Montelena 1973

Cabernet Sauvignon
Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars 1973

Saturday, April 21, 2007

pinkberry

I recall the “frozen yogurt” boom back in the late 80’s/early 90’s – TCBY boom. The frozen yogurt shops popping up every where, taunting its low-fat low calorie treats. If I recall, they came out with various kinds of flavors – including the usual vanilla, strawberry, and chocolate.

Well, it looks like the frozen yogurt boom is back – except this time its with a 21st century flare. A recent boom in Manhattan is pinkberry. This chic/modern minimalist frozen yogurt café seems to be quietly becoming the place to be for the Manhattanites. pinkberry got its start in Korean Town in Los Angeles, which quickly grew to about 10 shops in the area. Then it began its expansion into Manhattan with three stores open so far – SoHo, Korean Town (32nd Street) and UES.

The menu is quite simple. You choose either the plain or green tea flavor frozen yogurt. Then add toppings of your choice – including berries, fruits, nuts, and candies. They also have shaved ice topped with yogurt and toppings and smooties.

The dessert is bit on the pricey side. But then again, it is very good. And refreshing after a nice hearty meal and you don’t have to feel guilty about it – hey its low fat and low calories.

Give it a try.

www.pinkberry.com

Sunday, April 15, 2007

Land

There seems to be a lot of new restaurants popping up along 2nd Avenue in the Upper East Side. One such restaurant is Land, a Thai restaurant serving Northeast Thai cuisine. Land is a second restaurant opened by executive chef and owner David Bank. The sister restaurant is on the Upper West Side, also called Land Thai Kitchen.

Land does not take reservation. So when we arrived at the peak dinner time on a Saturday night, we were told that the wait is about 20-25 minutes. We left our name and a mobile phone number and waited outside. The wait was actually about 15 minutes and we were shown to our table. The dining area was small but cozy – with perhaps room large enough to seat about 50 customers.

The staff was very attentive and friendly. We ordered a papaya salad as a starter and each of us ordered a separate entrée. I ordered the special – grilled tuna with curry sauce and coconut milk served on top of green beans, asparagus, and liche – while my wife ordered cashew nut with chicken. The papaya salad was very spicy to my liking, but to those who does not like too much heat may want to ask for a medium. The entrée came in white serving plate with a side of jasmine rice. The ingredients were quite fresh. And the seasoning was not overwhelming.

The prices were reasonable. The restaurant has BYOB policy. I’m not sure if this is temporary or permanent. But given that the restaurant did not have a bar area, this is probably a permanent policy. We looked around the restaurant and there were many customers with their own bottles. As customers got seated, the wait staff quickly acknowledge the bottles by setting up glasses and offering to open the bottles.

As we left the restaurant, there was a long queue outside. The restaurant was not exceptional, but will be in a list of our weekend restaurants when we want Thai food. Also a good place to come with a group. In fact the restaurant had two large groups.

Land
1565 2nd Avenue (between 81st & 82nd)
New York, NY 10028
(212) 439-1847

www.landthaikitchen.com

Thursday, March 29, 2007

The Modern - The Museum of Modern Art

The Modern is a French-American restaurant located at the Museum of Modern Art. The restaurant is a member of Danny Meyer’s Union Square Hospitality Group (“USHG”), which includes other well-known places in Manhattan, such as Union Square Cafe, Gramercy Tavern, Eleven Madison Park, and Shake Shack. Having heard good things about this place, my wife and I decided to have our anniversary dinner at The Modern this year.

The Modern has two distinct dining areas – The Dining Room which features more formal setting with open ceiling area with a splendid view of the Abby Aldrich Rockefeller Sculpture Garden inside the MoMA complex; and The Bar Room featuring more casual but energetic setting and certainly much younger crowd than The Dining Room. Both dining areas showcase the creation of Chef Gabriel Kreuther, which is described as “elegant, creative French cuisine....”Obviously for our dinner, we choose The Dining Room.

We’ve been to many “fine dining” establishments in New York, some of them living up to the reputation while others some what disappointing. The Modern has one of the better ones and thought that it lived up to the hype. We were impressed with the service and delicious food to match the mood and the setting of the restaurant.

We were greeted by a staff assigned to our table with the menu. After taking our drink order (Bellini and Cosmopolitan), he gave us some time to leisurely read the menu. In fact, after we placed our food order, he offered to hold off on putting the order into the kitchen until we had some time to enjoy the cocktails and the amuse-bouches, which was a plate of scooped cucumber ball, goat cheese, and foie gras pâté.

And for dinner, we ordered the Chef Tasting Menu – which comprised of 8-course tasting course. And for me, suggested wine paring with the dinner.

The course included:
1).Melted Goat Cheese Amuse-Bouches
2).Foie Gra Terrine Flavored with Juniper Marinated Raisins, Grilled Country Bread
3).Yellowfin Tuna and Diver Scallops Tartare – Seasoned with American Paddlefish Caviar
4).Roasted Maine Lobster with Buckwheat Angelhair
5).Chorizo-Crusted Chatham Cod with White Coco Bean Puree and Harissa Oil
6).Long Island Duck Breast with Black Trumpet Marmalade, “Fleischneke”, and Banyuls Jus
7).Cheese Plate
8).Dessert

Did not care too much for the foie gra. Bit too much stuff around it. The tartare was quite good and matched well with the saltiness from the caviar. Maine lobster with buckwheat angelhair was an interesting combination. The duck breast was quite meaty. For the cheese plate, they brought a tray full of cheese for us to choose from. The portions on each course was just about right, except for the cheese plate. They were quite generous with the cheese, which we were not able to finish them all.

And for each course, the staff matched it with wine selection. It was quite good. Perhaps it was a bit too much alcohol but nonetheless, very enjoyable. They offered wines from various parts of the world, from Alace to Bordeux, from Virginia to Long Island. And finished it with Port for the cheese plate. Quite an experience and each wine was paired nicely with the meal. One regret is that they did not have a list of the wines served during the meal for me to refer back to.

The presentation of the food, with the wine and the timing were all orchestrated quite well by the waitperson in charge of our table and one additional staff to assist. Again, the service was quite impressive.

When we finished the course, had our espresso, and ready to depart, we had been at the restaurant for over 3 and 1/2 hours. Now, that is a leisurely dinner. One of the more memorable dining experience in New York for sure.

The Modern
The Museum of Modern Art
9 West 53rd Street
(between Fifth and Sixth Avenues)
New York, NY 10019
(212) 333-1220
Advance reservation strongly recommended. At least two weeks in advance


www.themodernnyc.com

Monday, March 26, 2007

Ultimate Belgian Tasting

Ultimate Belgian Tasting

A friend invited me to a Belgian beer and food tasting event that was co-sponsored by the Ale Street News and Consulate General of Belgium in New York. It was quite an event. You had to pre-register with your name before the event. You received a ticket which you need along with an I.D. to get into the event. It was held at the Heartland Brewery and Chophouse on 43rd Street.

After we got passed the bouncers in the entrance, we got inside and presented our tickets. Then we got a sampling glass and straight to the tasting. There were over twenty breweries and importers represented, each with their own booth to showcase their beer selections for us to taste. And as we mingled in the crowd, there were staff persons walking around with plates of different kinds of hor'dourve. There were other booths offering different types of Belgian foods like waffles, chocolates, cheese plates and patties. I was told that there were over 500 people who came to the event.

We really enjoyed the event. Never had so many different kinds of Belgian beer before. Typically, Duvel or Stella Artois comes to mind when we think about Belgian beer in the U.S. So it was quite intriguing and also a learning experience for me. It was very good. I particularly enjoyed beer with fruitiness of cherry and apples. You can taste the sweet fruit and yet quite strong with good flavor.

I also enjoyed the food. Tasted Belgian waffles – freshly made in the premise, right off the grill. Was very good. The best Belgian waffles I’ve ever had. Chocolates were good as wells their cheese. So overall it was quite an evening.

A list of some of the beers I tasted during the night.

Chimay Grand Reserve
Orval
Vichtenaar
Affligem Blong
Affligem Tripel
Unibroue 16 (from Quebec, Canada)

Tuesday, March 13, 2007

"Romance and Theatre" of Starbucks


I look forward to my weekend mornings at my neighborhood Starbucks. I enjoy the short walk, carrying reading materials like magazines and Sunday paper, and my notebook computer. Once in the coffee bar, take a look around, secure an empty table, then order a cup of coffee or latte. Once I get settled in, I’m spending the next couple of hours on reading, writing, and reflecting on the week past and on the week ahead. It’s a ritual that I began few years ago in Tokyo and continues on after moving here to Manhattan. It is a great way to clean up my inbox, read my Sunday paper, and write down things to do for the coming week. And the whole atmosphere of the café – the aroma of freshly grounded coffee beans, other patrons enjoying their weekend morning, the noise from the baristas pulling espresso shots by hand – all of these add to the whole ambiance of an Italian neighborhood coffee bar that Starbucks has build its brand and reputation on. It’s the “romance and theatre” of the whole coffee experience.

But is Starbucks losing that “romance and theatre”? The Wall Street Journal printed an article on February 24, 2007 about an internal memo to executives written by Howard Schultz, the Chairman of Starbucks. The memo apparently talked in length about how Starbucks may be losing its “romance and theatre” of the coffee experience. Starbucks has an aggressive expansion plans to grows the number of its global location from current 13,000 to 40,000. It is offering menu items that are not traditional specialty coffee/tea drinks – such as hot breakfast sandwiches. Many Starbucks stores are opening drive-through windows. And others are switching to automatic espresso machines – taking away the sounds and sights of baristas pulling shots by hand.

So do I have to find another place that gives me the “romance and theatre” to enjoy my weekly ritual? Perhaps I may have to. A couple of weeks ago, I noticed exactly what Chairman Schultz was talking about in his memo. Instead of the usual coffee-bean aroma, I smelled something burning. I suspected that it was one of their breakfast sandwiches burning in the oven – guessed from the smell of burnt cheese. If this continues, I will definitely have to think of alternatives. Perhaps start an espresso bar in my own home – to brew my own shots. But it’s not the same – it lacks the “romance and theatre.” I do hope that Starbucks will seriously consider what its Chairman had to say and get back to its roots and keep that “romance and theatre.”

Wednesday, March 7, 2007

So Kong Dong Restaurant


Soft Tofu Soup!!

Never had this spicy Korean tofu soup dish until just recently. Our friends recommended So Kong Dong in Fort Lee, New Jersey that serves one of the best soft tofu soup in the area. When we finally had the chance to go there last December, it was so good that I immediately fell in love with it. I would go there every week, had it not been for the fact that it is not easy to get to Fort Lee from Manhattan without a car. But last Saturday, our friends invited us to join them and introduced us to another way to get there – i.e., through the use of public transportation. It involved taking the subway to George Washington Bridge, taking the bus to cross the bridge, and walking 10 minutes to the restaurant. But it was worth it… even if the walk was a bit cold.

So Kong Dong is a minimalist restaurant that serves only soft tofu soup and kalbe. This place is so popular that there is always a queue. When we went there in December, we must have waited at least 20 minutes – even when we had called in ahead of time to take a number to reserve a spot in the queue.

The menu is quite simple. A selection of soft tofu soup – including seafood, seafood and beef, oysters, kimchee and beef, etc. You can choose the level of spiciness to your liking – Not Spicy, Not So Spicy, Mild, Spicy, and Very Spicy. The menu also includes Korean BBQ (kalbe). After you order, the staff brings out five to six side dishes for the table – a selection of different types of kimchee. The rice that they serve is cooked in a stone pot which they bring to the table and serve it individually.

I had the Very Spicy seafood and beef soup when I visited there for the first time. And this last Saturday, I ordered the oyster soup. Again, Very Spicy!! The broth for the soup had flavor that brought out the sweetness of the spicy chili in the soup. So even at the Very Spicy level, I did not get the burning sensation. Rather, it complimented the flavor of the soup. If you are not very fond of spicy food, then I would suggest ordering “mild”. Too little spice can make the soup dull.

Kalbe was also very good. The meat was well marinated in Korean BBQ sauce and it was flavorful.

Best thing about this restaurant is the reasonable price. The price of the soup went up to $8.00 recently. But that is still a bargain, if you compare to what Korean restaurants will charge for similar menu in Manhattan.

I wouldn’t mind going there again before the winter season is over.

So Kong Dong Restaurant
130 Main St
Fort Lee, NJ 07024
(201)242-0026

Sunday, February 25, 2007

2004 Paraduxx Napa Valley Red Wine


True. I was drawn to this wine by the label and the name – Paraduxx. Never heard of it but sounded very interesting. It is Napa Valley blended red wine. But what really struck me is that this is a true Californian red wine – the blend is made from Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot. Yes, Zinfandel. In fact 2004 vintage has 65% of it. This, I had to try. And the winery is owned by the Duckhorn Family, the owner of the Duckhorn Vineyards, famous of its Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon.

Paraduxx’s label features artist-label series, where different artists are picked for each vintage to show case their paintings of ducks native to the Pacific Flyway. 2004 vintage is the eleventh in this series and Andrew Denman was picked to showcase his acrylic painting of a pair of Wood Ducks in their natural habitat.

According to Paraduxx’s website, it describes the artist as:

“… an artist known for capturing diverse subjects, including wildlife, landscapes, and still life, in an equally diverse range of styles. Whether paining an animal in its natural habitat or juxtaposing it against an abstract background, Denman goes to great length to faithfully portray his subjects.”

The wine has strong fruity aroma – dense cherry and blackberry. At first, you can taste chocolate flavor, and a hint of licorice. Then follows with soft tannin – not overly powering. Medium body and long finish. It did not disappoint and kept me interested till the end.


Thursday, February 22, 2007

B. Cafe

B. Café is a Belgium bar and café in the Upper East Side. You walk down few steps from the street and you walk into the bar filled with patrons, even on weeknights. It has the feel of a neighborhood bar where patrons are all locals. Feels very much at home. It is a great place to stop by on the way home from work with your friends. It is also a place where you can drop by on late Saturday night after dinner for few more drinks.

I went there for the first time this past weekend. The bar area is in the front while the dinning tables are in the back. It serves variety of Belgium beers – some from the tap and others in bottles. There are other drinks as well. And best of all, it will not break your wallet – the drinks are reasonably priced (for NY standard). On weekends, the bar area is opened till late so you can enjoy the drinks and company.

Next time, I’ll try out the food menu. Try the mussels and frites.

B. Café
240 E. 75th St.
(bet. 2nd & 3rd Aves.)
Manhattan, NY 10021
212-249-3300

Friday, January 26, 2007

Seoul Garden

There is a lot of Korean restaurants on 34th Street between Broadway and 5th Ave (a.k.a. Korean Town). Last Saturday, it was very cold. So decided it would be nice to have hot tofu soup – and “hot”, both in terms of spicy hot and hot hot. I called my friends and had a group of us try out Seoul Garden. The restaurant is big – take us a huge space on a 2nd floor of a building. No problem getting seated. The place is well known for its natural tofu soup. But the menu is also filled with other Korean food.

We ordered pajun and jap chae for the table. They brought different side dishes, like kimichi, pickles, and potato salad. Each of us ordered tofu soup as the main dish. I also ordered the set menu where in addition to the tofu soup came Korean BBQ (or kalbi). Tofu soup came in different levels of spiciness – very mild, mild, spicy, and very spicy. I tried the very spicy. It was hot, but bearable. It was actually great way to warm up the body in cold New York winter nights.

Seoul Garden
34 West 32nd ST. 2nd Fl. (Between 5th AV. and Broadway)
New York, NY 10001

(212) 736-9002

2003 Peju Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Estate Bottled


As I was browsing through my local wine shop, this bottle caught my eyes. With a name like “Peju”, it is hard to ignore. Peju Province Winery was founded by Tony and Herta Peju in 1982. The winery was named “Winery of the Year” by Wine & Spritis Magazine; and has grown for 30 acre ranch to 380 acres in 1999. The Peru family is looking to grow further.

Peju Province Winery produces a wide range of wines – Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Syrah, Zinfandel, Chardonnay, and other rare wine.

2003 Cabernet Sauvignon from Napa Valley was quite pleasing. It was not overwhelming like other Cabs from Napa Valley. The aroma of dark cherry and vanilla welcomed me as I opened and poured the wine. First sip tasted with vanilla followed by toasty oak flavor. It held its tannin through its long finish.

I want to try their Cabernet Franc.

Friday, January 19, 2007

Kanoyama

We met a family in New York some time ago and have gotten to be good friends and hang out together periodically on weekends. Like us, they also love to try out the restaurant scene in New York. So, they have been bugging us for a while to try out a Japanese restaurant in East Village called Kanoyama. It has received high Zagat rating with comments like “still a secret” and “one of Manhattan’s best sushi options.”

We finally decided to check out what the hype is all about. In fact, we decided to go with the family that recommended and another family friend. On weekends, the restaurant does not take reservations. So we decided to go early and arrived around 6:00pm. It was beginning to fill-up. And by 6:30pm, it was a full house. And pretty soon, a queue started to form which seemed to have gotten longer as time passed. Interestingly enough, the patrons were mostly non-Japanese/non-Asian.

I started off with a bottle of microbrew beer imported directly from Japan, which is very rare in New York. The name of the brewery is Hitachino and they served two kinds – classic and white ale. I had the white ale, which was quite nice. Smooth with fruity aroma and taste. It was a pleasant way to start the evening and the meal. Then the group decided to order a half bottle of sake – Sawanoi Daikarakuchi – very dry and quite smooth.

We began with few appetizers. Half of a sea urchin shell filled with sea urchin from Maine – which we ate by dipping them into a bowl of cold salt water, like shabu-shabu. Wow – the sea urchin melted like butter and the salt water actually brought out the sweetness of the sea urchin. Never had sea urchin like this before. Then came what I call the “fatty” salmon. It is the belly of salmon (equivalent to “toro” of tuna). It was grilled. This was wonderful. Crispiness of the skin balanced out well with the meat. It was moist with the fat that did not overwhelm and quite sweet.

Then we order “omakase” sashimi and sushi courses. Although the fish was quite fresh (mostly imported directly from Japan) and very good, I was not overly impressed. It was like any other reputable sushi restaurants in Manhattan. Perhaps all the hype really set my expectation high and was more of a let down. We also order few additional pieces of sushi ala cart. One sushi which I enjoyed very much was nama-dako (raw octopus). It is rare to find nama-dako in Manhattan, so it was a nice way for me to finish the dinner in a high note.

Overall, it was a good restaurant and we’ll go back there again. I’m not sure if we are willing to wait in a queue. The food is good and service was excellent. The staff did tell us that its been difficult to get good fish that weekend. So we will try again and perhaps manage our expectation next time. Hope they have better selection of fish.

Kanoyama Japanese Restaurant
175 2nd avenue (11th street)
New York, NY 10003
(212) 777-5266
http://www.kanoyama.com

Wednesday, January 10, 2007

New Year's Eve 2006

It is customary in Japan to eat soba-noodles on New Year's Eve. I guess its like how Americans eat roast turkey on Thanksgiving. There are many theories on the origin of this tradition. One theory dates back to the Edo-period in the 1600's. A goldsmith of the period came up with the idea of using soba-noodle dough to clean his shop on New Year's Eve by kneeding the dough to pick up the gold dust and particles. The more popular and well-known theory is that eating "noodles" brings longivity symbolyzed by eating "long" noodles. No matter what the origin of the tradition is, most Japanese families have soba-noodles on New Year's Eve to bid farewell to the year that is about to pass and look forward to the new year that is about to begin.

So every year in our household, we also find a way to partake in this tradition. When we lived in St. Louis, it meant buying packaged dry soba-noodles at Mitsuwa Japanese Supermarket in Chicago, making the soup ourselves, and eating them at home. During the three years that we lived in Tokyo, there were many popular and famous shops that sold their fresh soba-noodles. In most cases, advance reservation was a must. So we did exactly that - placed our order in advance and cooked them at home to enjoy with family. One year, we actually waited in a queue outside of the restaurant for over 90 minutes in the cold weather for one of the best soba-noodle I've had in my life.

New Year's Eve 2006 was no different. We debated whether to go out or order in. We decided to go out. We had heard from friends that "Sobaya" in East Village is one of the best soba-noodle shops in NY Manhattan. So we planned ahead with another family friend and decided to give it a try. Unfortunately, this place does not take reservations for dinner. So we went there ready to wait in queue if necessary to have the best soba-noodle in NY. Of course other Japanese and New Yorkers had the same idea. On our way there in the cab, our friend called and said that there is at least a 90-minute wait (and it was still 6:00pm). Fortunately, the restaurant allowed us to leave our names and phone number so that we can do other things while we wait. So we waited at a near by tea house. The wait was actually not that long. We got the call after about 50 minutes.

The wait was worth every minute of it. The soba-noodle is actually made right in the restaurant. There was a soba maker in the restaurant, kneeding the dough. I ordered the "ten-zaru" or cold soba with tempura. Fresh soba-noodle was cooked just right - not too soft and not too hard. It was balanced, the right amount of buckwheat flour ("soba" flour) and wheat flour, so that I can actually taste the "soba" flour. A nice way to close out 2006.

We also ordered some appetizers for the table - tuna wrapped in yuba, shrimp shumai, and goma-ae. We were disappointed that they were out of dashi-maki.

The service was friendly and attentive, in spite of the fact that it was probably the busiest night of the year.

Would go back again - next time try other things on the memu. They all looked good. Ten-don sounded quite attractive.

Sobaya
229 East 9th Street
New York, NY 10003
212-533-6966
www.sobaya-nyc.com